My mind blew away the first time I came across @roni_m_29 Roni Madhvani’s Instagram account indeed my first foray in tasteful and unique vintage watches. I’ve never seen or knew of such watches before and for that I’m forever grateful. Since then we developed a nice friendship and bond founded on our passion for collecting the best period design of fine Swiss vintage wristwatches. I’m elated to have for sale four candies out of his exclusive collection:
-An Audemars Piguet 1950s Disco Volante,
– a platinum carre’ 1950s Audemars Piguet ,
-a rare steel and rose gold 1940s Patek Philippe reference 544
–and last but not least a rare oversized Patek Philippe Calatrava reference 2569 from the 1950s.
The prime philosophy behind each and every watch I acquire is that It’s for me- I like it.
Then if it resonates with the public and you are attracted to it as well, then great!
Otherwise I’m happy to live with each and everyone of my choices because all this is purely MY TASTE
If my heart doesn’t break every time I part from a watch I’ve sold I had no business acquiring it in the first place.
I’ve always been attracted to vintage things, the story they tell the sensations they give me. I guess I’m an old soul.
A bit italian dandy and a bit Beastie Boys from NYC this is where I’m coming from!
My vision completely changed on this day :
Geneva May 2018
The weather is perfect, the lake is a mirror reflecting the sky and the vintage watch market is hotter than my grill on the 4th of July: Daytona – Nautilus and the hot cakes of last night’s watch collecting are shattering thermometers and the graphs keep on spiking higher and higher.. higher than the American stock market in the Trump era- this bull is raging! I’m wearing my army green sleek sport jacket, my hair is gelled, my black slim fit long sleeve t shirt makes me feel fashionable but boy do I feel even cooler with both my wrists clad in vintage Daytona’s I’d think you can call me Vanilla Ice. I walk into the Gem Geneve gems and antique jewelry fair ongoing along the auction week happy like a kid with the dopest toys at school (on my wrist).
here i am fresh as a rose…not for so long.
At a distance I notice this italian watch dealer I’ve been seeing around for some time, he looks sort of like Lino Ieluzzi, Zavotta is his name I believe,spreads an aura of coolness sprezzatura-I haven’t seen yet one fashionable dude in all this industry but this older guy. The linen scarf, the military jacket, the khaki pants with the jodhpur boots and that air of I don’t give a damn.. I had to walk up to this dude I had to learn something, what is he wearing on that wrist: I had to take something home out of this guy today.. so “ciao!” I say and show off my duo of vintage Daytona (mind you a $150k value on my wrists) and mr cool italian vintage watch dealer smirks at me saying (i freely translate from italian): “whoa boy you’re avant-garde with those…really forward”. Cold shower on my vanilla ice I deeply realize I had absolutely no added value to my game. In his mind I was just another schlepper. Yes I was peddling hot cakes but that showed nothing of my taste and talents. Anyone with a bank account and an instagram account can do that. Anyone can be a geek hunting the ultimate MK version or the double Swiss of my tuches.. That cold shower taught me a valuable lesson: To be forward thinking. To let my taste take control. After all I thought, I did make a small fortune selling custom suits and promoting my vision and style why can’t I use my God given gift again. My style has been my Trojan horse why not believe in it again? And then more, I was born in Milano the most fashionable city in the world this city really runs in my veins.. it’s history it’s culture and it’s belief in beauty and the sprezzatura factor, it’s totally me. I do live in New York the center of the world and I also completely adopted it’s beat. The hip hop edge and the urban tune of New York also run through my vascular system. At this point I’m the son of these two metropolises. Better use what God wanted to teach me. That day I decided I’ll only sell what I want what I’d wear what you’ll never have what you can’t even imagine without me surprising you. “I’m promoting a level of taste, a feeling. I would personally wear everything I offer.” Said Ralph Lauren. Watches that speak of you, me, us. Watches that give us a hard on not because everyone wants them- not because it’s spiking through the charts- but because they just appeal to us. It’s just attractive. Shapes colors sizes flavors. Timepieces that say who we are what we feel today and timepieces that arejust an accessory to our outfit. “I strap it on my wrist I feel instantly something good”, that’s the goal. I found much much common ground with Audemars Piguet vintage watches, in my opinion the real risk takers and taste makers of Swiss watchmaking. At every turn a new surprise and a superb design in 40/50/60/70s wristwatches. Not necessarily expensive but most importantly exclusive and unique. This year I’ve uncovered many treasures I’m happy to share with you below. Cartier also has that panache I’m looking for these days but to that I’ll dedicate a special post.
It’sthe start of a new decade, I’m so excited for a breath of fresh air and I have to be fully sincere with you excited to see the end of many popular vintage watches as well.
This past year 2019 has been a great one for me: I moved to my private office in 608 5th avenue making it a much more upscale, private and thoughtful experience for myself and my loyal clientele. I also decided to focus on more tasteful and unique watches rather than what the market at large demands.
My strategy paid off: a new breed of client is walking through my door everyday. He’s stylish, he wears a fine tailored suit or high end knit and he’s looking for a watch to complement his style. The watch will speak volumes about his taste, his sophistication, his pairing choices. The watch he picks doesn’t scream a price tag nor doesn’t indicate if he’s wealthy (and typically he is but wishes not to flaunt it!). “Guys I’m so glad to meet you at last” I say in my head..
Back to 2020 and the new decade I’m feeling around me a big thirst for freshness.
We saw the rise of the vintage Nautilus and it’s Gerald Genta peers from mid $ k teens all the way close to $100k along with streams of collectors gobbling vintage Rolex soaring from reasonable numbers to blue chip investment values.. Seeing watches soar so high is nice but it’s not what I’m after and not what I promote.
There seems to be a growing demand for tasteful and smaller sized watches, timepieces that are chosen cause they fit right on our own wrist! We have been so influenced by the Panerai and Offshore mentality prevalent in the past two decades of the new Millenium that a lot has been left on the side. We have been lead to believe that a man HAS to wear a watch that is at least 40mm for it to feel masculine. I have news for you: there’s nothing farther from the truth!
My mind runs to Goldberger, a prominent vintage watch collector and tastemaker that has been posting plenty of vintage Cartier wrist shots on his Instagram showcasing how sexy a fair sized watch can look on a grown ass hairy man. My mind also runs to another fabulous Instagram account, George Cramer’s, that has been a Cartier aficionado forever and is demonstrating how cool “classic size” timepieces can be. Last but not least I’ll mention Roni Madhvani who is a personal client of mine and he’s showing us on his Insta account his eclectic taste in watches : all about shapes and design (size isn’t a factor).
Now that we are on Cartier talk allow me to tell you that Cartier is on the verge of being the hottest and most sought after brand in watch collecting. Not only it’s appeal has been going strong for over 100 years but the uniqueness and “artisan made” feel of their vintage watches is truly sensational. You will quickly realize after searching to buy a vintage Cartier watch that it’s not so easy to find the right one for you.
There is an enormous quantity of modern and commercial quality Cartier watches out there and you’ll be overwhelmed. That makes my own search so much more exhilarating and the excitement of finally landing a proper one is really great. Vintage Cartier watches are rare!
The Cartier Santos Dumont is exactly to my point. Unlike any other watch I’ve worn. It’s not a timepiece it’s a gentleman’s accessory.
In this new decade I wish for all of us to pursue watches that are unlikely to be on anyone else wrist (by the way that’s the number one factor when buying a watch for my own collection) along with the pursuit of finding excitement in what appeals to our personal taste and to the Instagram like algorithm.
It has been one month that I’ve closed the retail shop we had at 32 west 47th st in Manhattan and moved to the building I’ve been dreaming to have an office at since I’ve moved to NY 16 years ago.
I am now at 608 5th avenue, an Art Deco masterpiece building right in midtown in the most iconic and classy NY area of them all.
The Art Deco elevator
Finally we can sit, relax and look at the watches in a lovely atmosphere.
I look forward to hosting you, show you what’s new- sip a tequila (if after 5pm!) and just enjoy the passion for collectible watches and gems.
Guess what, my next door neighbor is the Switzerland Tourism Department office, it couldn’t get better than this!
Classic 55 LLC is in 608 5th avenue room 609. Onward and upward!
I’m so grateful I was able to acquire this absolutely incredible and fresh to the market Royal Oak A series from the son of the original German owner.
His dad had bought this watch in 1974 and wore it everyday since. He was a commodity broker and retired in Bolzano Italy in the 80s.
I had been working on this deal since November, after much patience, radio silences, hide and seeks and much emailing Sven came to NY on vacation and to strike a deal.
What a magnificent and perfect tropical dial, featuring a sweet caramel color which is even and simply mesmerizing in the sun light.
lechaim!
I took the watch and he bought me a beer. I also love the serial number which totals up to number 7. To life !
It’s that time of the year again: Fall is upon us and the auction season is starting to steam full force. The market is what it is- everybody is talking about watches, everyone wants one, everything is sky rocketing in value. You know it, I know it, we all see it.
Collectible vintage watches are simple to decipher: they’re never going to be manufactured again, the best condition pieces are the most desirable, the demand is great and the supply, as I just mentioned, is no more. The specimens with issues such as lacking complete originality or in blemished and let’s go to even mediocre condition are comparably cheap and approachable and there’s a reason why.
The best, well, that you’ll have to pay up for today.
One thing I know for sure: everyone wants the same five references and that’s just because most collectors in the Instagram era aren’t motivated by passion, taste and sophistication but just fueled by the desire to instantly gratify the need to own what the other owns and one man up each other on Instagram. Find me a new a Roni Madhvani! A new Goldberger! People with a point of view ! All I see is the next guy from Asia competing with the other rich guy from Miami on how crisp is they’re 6263, 5402 A series, they’re 5711/5712 or 3700 or the Pepsi GMT of any iteration. I mean can you have some individuality already? How are you even able to enjoy them to their full potential if you buy a toy every week just to brag and get oohs and aaahs on IG!?
the fresh and the cool
I’m here to bring the fresh and the cool just as when I started selling jumbos 3700 and 5402 5 years ago when nobody gave a damn about them and the fad wasn’t in yet for the “bro, bro “ of the Instagram hype. (Rant over) 🙂 . I typically like to fly to Milan first so I can visit my birthplace, refresh my senses and visit some clients, customers and colleagues. Also the flight is cheaper. Always fly coach ! Always save money if you can in the business! Don’t overspend and charge your clients for it ! I’m all about that value proposition…
Needless to say everyone is drinking the kool aid in Italy when it comes to vintage watches so business is not as easy but a gem is typically uncovered and brought home, one way or another. Funny type those Italians.
vintage AP is really something else..
Today I’m going to visit my dear colleague Mauricio who I really respect as he tries to have a selection that is based on taste and sophistication not just hype. The Milan center location is simply mesmerizing and I always look forward to my club soda ice and lime served by the white gloved white uniform wearing butler. Ooh so old world I should start wearing suits again…
After that I’ll head to Umberto with whom I share a strong bond and struck quite a few deals through the years. Quite a few deals indeed, back or fro…. Umberto’s pedigree is hard to beat in our industry.
Umberto and his father
Federico Verga
Gianni is my man on the field. A Neapolitan mastiff transplanted in milan. Always good to share a coffee with, maybe buy watch and hear about the latest way to avoid taxes in this fucking country.
Gianni is the man!
Now it’s time to have some fun with my friends and family, the tie that bonds us will never fade.
I look forward to taking the train to Geneva and to check all the watches open for bidding this weekend. Damn I love that scenic ride through the valleys and mountains. I feel like high glancing at all this majestic beauty through the windows and believe me, it’s majestic indeed. Switzerland and lake shore Italy it can’t get more George Clooney than this. I always wish my wife was with me on these occasions. Maybe one day I can do it like Michael Safdie too.
Here we are here we go— Geneva most postcard looking place out there and at the same a place where you could get totally depressed. Let’s focus on the positive i tell myself.
The weather is crisp and there is a certain glow in the air. Man I feel good. Man I love Switzerland. Oh man, look at that lake. Wow..
Geneva what a fucking amazing place. Reminds me of my grandfather Israel Ismael Gohari who used to travel the world for the gemstones and would meet suppliers in places like Geneva..and the old world jewelers bucherer, Gubelin, Golay fils et stahl.. And the legendary 80s and 90s with the Kashmir sapphires and important gemstones auctions… in 2018 the fine gemstones are actually fine watches and here I am. First stop: Antiquorum. 500 lots for sale is not a joke and what I love about this auction house is the full selection spanning all sorts of timepieces. The specialists here are quite candid and I enjoy the office and cozy setting of their alone street retail level showroom. This time I’ll be spending most of my Sunday in Geneva bidding here instead of drinking the kool aid at La Reserve, if you know what I mean. I’m hoping I can snatch them Aps and whatever else falls in my net. I decide to look at whatever lot I’m knowledgeable about because I’m here with the motivation of buying good stuff at good prices and bring it home. I end up sitting there for 4 hours+ looking at everything interesting or semi interesting and doing my due diligence. Due diligence is of the upmost importance at these auction previews because it’s easy to get caught in the hype but you really need to make sure the stuff is what you’d expect it to be and,mark my words, it is not in 70% of the cases. There is always a little surprise or a little cosmetic detail that makes the difference in value and condition. Other friends and colleagues join in and I’m candidly approached by the infamous Orchi of instagram and forum fame (or not ). Interesting character indeed and very personable, I really hope he got over whatever feelings he had towards the industry. Corrado sits next to me and it is nice to spend the afternoon with friends exchanging experiences and ideas. I make up my mind about all the viewed lots and I set to myself the limit I’ll go up to have them. There is one particular piece I really hope to bring home…
a like nos pink gold day date copped at the auction
ended up copping this..it is really ginormous
orchi palar
Julien Shaerrer and Corrado Mattarelli
i got this but we will talk about it more in the future…. it is something extremely special
Jumbo made in 50 pcs only for the italian market with extra dial really cool!
My hotel was really nice and comfy and was located a 10 minutes walk from all the action. It was actually located next to the red light district of Geneva so my first walks to my endeavors were quite spicy at first till I figured a kosher route.
Friday morning I was welcomed by a glorious day in Geneva and the walk to the Four Seasons Hotel de Bergues was literally majestic. Blue skies and that shimmer on lake Geneva my heart literally stopped. You can feel God in the air, you really can ! Christie’s here we are let’s see what we won’t take home today ..unfortunately I’m never feeling the magic here I hope we can change that sooner or later. The Christie’s preview was buzzing with people and their setup extremely luxurious (obviously, we are the 4 seasons!). Lots of nice watches but let’s be honest I won’t be able to buy anything to bring home here. Michael Safdie joins me for a bit. The hype there is strong.
an oversize early 20th century beauty under UV light
vacheron 222
royal oak perpetual….
The day of rest is upon me and I retire in my room before sundown with my wine and food, ready to renew my spirit and body. After a restful Saturday I get messaged by few nice Italian chaps to join in at the Phillips auction. I haven’t seen the previews nor had really anything I was craving from there but the public relations duty had to be done. I meet so many friends from all over the world it turns out to be funner than I thought. Phillips, so much excitement in the room. The auction where no lots ever pass. How do you do it always ? It’s a sell out with Aurel Bacs, he always strikes me as he could be a vampire in his spare time. Look at him carefully he totally fits as a “true blood” character. Love those scarf wearing choked tanned Italians in the room. Meeting with Tobias from amsterdam has been a long time plan. Crazy fun minded individuals aren’t easy to find among my colleagues unfortunately most of them are a one trick pony after watches their charm is spent and really boys, you’re no nuclear science professor by checking if it’s a mk1 Or mk2, let’s just have some fun. I’m also so happy to see James Dowling I really enjoy him.
Cristiano Tonetto and Alessio Zenga..great guys
Davide Halevim… knows me since I am a child
I have a hard time falling asleep as the jet lag isn’t my friend this night and the excitement of what tomorrow’s going to bring keeps me up to the early hours.
William Massena, a good friend!
a legendary table: Jeff Morris, Jeff Harris and James Dowling. Lot’s to learn here…..
I wake up fresh nonetheless and make my way to the Antiquorum big day.
A whole day of bidding and Hotel Kempinsky. I’m ready.
The sun is out, the sky blue, the scenery is out of this world and it’s Sunday in Geneva. I feel blessed.
I sit at the VIP table with William Massena and we follow the lots passing.
I did my homework well here and I’m confident.
It ends being a good day. Sothebys, with your ever so variable Geneva auction schedule. One time it’s Sunday one time is Monday afternoon and the next time is Tuesday.. can we set a day already?! But I do feel the magic here and the magic has happened for me so I’m your fan, sotheby. I spend some serious time viewing all the interesting lots in between the brake at Antiquorum and the lots that really weren’t for me. I’m welcomed very warmly and the staff is extremely helpful and friendly. I really like this gig. The late Sunday night cocktail is also welcome…
Adam inspecting the goods..
Ancienne watches and Andrea Mattioli
On Monday the weather is still holding up and it’s Christie’s show day. All the rat pack is still around and everyone is excited to see what the results will be. Needless to say this weekend’s undisputed king was the Nautilus in all its iterations, small or big, the bubble is in motion FULL FORCE. Nautilus flying out in outer space.. I spend my day attempting to bid but most importantly I’m meeting new colleagues and friends who tell me how much they enjoy my Instagram stories.. if you don’t follow me..do.
Jasper Lifjering from Amsterdam Vintage watches, he is probably crazier than I am
Wolf from Rare and Fine
The day ends well but with it starts also the shitty weather and the depressing side of Geneva. Luckily I’m out the next day taking my train down to Milan.
All bets are done, all hands are shaken and luckily some watches were sold too at the shop while I was away, thank God.
I’m super excited to show you what’s coming.
It’s my daughters birthday today and my flight better be on time. We have a big sushi fest planned.
I remember when I was a little kid, my son’s age, my father used to take these overseas trips to Thailand.
On these occasions he used to say “I’m traveling to the Far East”, sounded so pompous to a little kid like me it seemed like he was Marco Polo navigating to the orient trading in exotic fineries.
In most ways he was, minus the medieval look and the sail ship I guess.
The best part though was waiting for “the gift” he would bring me from those far away lands..watta wait!
A ten day – sometimes a two week wait and then boom: Daddy is home and what an excitement to get those bootlegged VHS Michael Jackson videos along with the fake Lacoste polos paired with the Muay Thai shimmery shorts..
Then at 8 years old my Father took me along to Thailand and boy -was it love at first sight with the “Far East”.
Now I’m a big boy and the watch has been ticking a couple of decades and et voila! it’s my son’s turn to wait for “the gift”.
He’s expecting a remote control helicopter and one of my daughters wants a leather jacket.
My first daughter “just wants me back” while my lovely wife Barbie “just wants me to be good!” .
The little one wants a Chinese pajama, or so I think..she’s too young to say.
Vintage watches and the watch industry in general has had such a strong run in the past 4 years it’s hard to keep up.
I’ve been selling so many beautiful vintage Rolexes, Pateks, APs etc and making so many enthusiasts and collectors happy all over the world. The prices though keep on going higher and higher as more collectors join the game and less quality product is around, after all we are talking about discontinued timepieces standing the test of time!
Prices for vintage Rolex are absurd. The increase has been so strong, I could safely say everything went up 50% since a couple of years ago. Also prices for Nautilus watches has been sky rocketing since I sold my first 3700 big bracelet, 4 years ago for $24500! And they were calling me crazy, all the dealers at the show, not knowing the hype that was to follow few years later with some dealers now asking $75000 for a Jumbo Nautilus with cork box and $33000 for a in production Nautilus 5711!!!
It’s all out of proportion: you really have to be a millionaire to afford a vintage Daytona at $40k or even better you have to be making serious money for buying a vintage GMT at over $15k….
So what happened to the excitement and enjoyment of gazing at your timepiece and just getting mesmerized by the details and glow of it in the sun?
I see all over instagram a new phase of collecting and a new breed of buyers pursuing vintage watches that are affordable and just beautiful!
It’s all about the details, the design, the style, the movement and of course the condition. So many beautiful pieces that are not necessarily Rolex or Patek but nonetheless fantastic and even more rare.
I’ve been acquiring quite a few new pieces that are in that direction: Nice condition, happening, detailed, just fun to wear and collect and above all affordable.
such a beautiful chronograph from the 40s-50s with a gilt glossy dial that shines bright like a diamond in the sunshine
it’s all about the size in the Calatrava design: this oversized Longines has it all.
All about condition and detail too. Take this unique JLC in like new old stock condition with fancy lugs and a striking salmon dial.
Let me tell you also that Bulova is the next big thing. Spaceviews, Snorkels and gorgeous tuning fork movements are becoming highly collectible. We’ve had a fair share of special Bulova and spectacular examples like the Stars and Stripes and some rare Spaceview Accutrons.
the fabled “stars and stripes”
one of the most special Spaceviews I had..
this one was a super rare one too
Bottom line, this wonderful passion is supposed to give you emotions and fun. I am so over all the fear and mistrust of and and for vintage Rolex. Let’s have FUN!
The first time I saw a Royal Oak I was a young boy at our family haberdasher in Italy getting suits for our upcoming holidays.
Our tailor was a very elegant man and he was showing off to my father his newly acquired Royal Oak Jumbo, beautiful black dial and AP at 6 o clock.
My dad was bragging he also had a Royal Oak in the early 80s, yellow gold 36mm, he had sold to Davide Halevim a year after he bought it. Regrettably, I have never seen it.
The Royal Oak is the only top category watch in today’s insane watch market that is still buyable at an interesting price, retains it’s value and is an instant classic.
I love the fact there are numerous variations,metals,sizes,complications and editions so that you can never have enough and there is always something to discover.
The Jumbo extra thin caliber 2121 has been kicking strong since the 70s and the Gerald Genta Octagon case is one of the most iconic designs ever.
The Royal Oak is a watch that looks great with a suit, with jeans and at the poolside. Looks great on a guy as much as it looks on a girl.
I love the sculptural design and finish on the bracelet, it is one of the most interesting bracelet designs ever, what a play of light when the sun hits it!
